The increase in chocolate production at the turn of the century occurred even though chocolate remained something of a luxury product. Although it is hard to estimate precisely, per capita consumption in Switzerland in 1905 was around one kilogram (two pounds) per year - less than one tenth of today's figure. Much of the advertising was targeted towards wealthy foreign visitors. Even the young ladies who came from all over the world to polish their social skills in the "finishing schools" of western Switzerland were a favourite target, for Lindt in particular. Such people were doubly desirable as consumers: not only were they rich enough to afford chocolate in the first place, they would also spread its fame in their own countries when they went home.

The domestic market remained relatively small, accounting for perhaps one quarter of total production in the early 20th century. But as an export-based industry chocolate manufacture went from strength to strength. Where annual exports amounted to 600,000 kg in 1890, they were 17 million kg by 1914. In the years just before World War I, Switzerland had more than half the world chocolate market.

Paradoxically, the war made chocolate more popular than ever. It stopped being regarded as a product for women and children, since men called up to guard the borders were given it in their rations. By the early 1920s the Swiss were eating on average about 2.7 kg (6lb) annually - and this despite the fact that it was still relatively expensive. For example, it would take a male industrial worker at that time about half an hour to earn the money for a 100 gramme (3.5 oz) Toblerone bar.

Despite the fierce rivalry between manufacturers, 16 of them got together in 1901 to set up an umbrella organisation to represent their common interests, the "Union libre des fabricants suisses de chocolat". (This organisation is now called Chocosuisse. It members are companies involved in the industrial manufacture of chocolate and chocolate products and major importers of finished chocolate.)

Military chocolate

One early customer for Swiss chocolate was the army, which included chocolate among its basic rations. Suchard first launched chocolate for the troops in 1876.

A century ago Swiss chocolate was much appreciated by Russian officers fighting the Japanese in Manchuria. "It often happens during campaigns that you have nothing to eat, and then a little bit of Gala picks you up straight away," wrote a Russian military nurse to Daniel Peter in 1905.

Swiss and Russian troops were not the only ones to enjoy it: it was sold to many armies.

Even today chocolate is part of the standard Swiss army rations.